JAPANESE JOURNAL OF CLOTHING RESEARCH
Online ISSN : 2424-1660
Print ISSN : 0910-5778
ISSN-L : 0910-5778
Identification of Natural and Early Synthetic Dyes Used in Violet Silk Fabrics Dated to the Late of Edo-Meiji Era
Namika KatafuchiMamiko Yatagai
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2014 Volume 57 Issue 2 Pages 83-93

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Abstract

  The objective of this study was to analyze the dyes used in violet silk kimono fabrics which could be dated as being from the end of Edo period to the Meiji Era. By using multiple, comparatively simple analytical methods (visual examination, spectroscopic analysis, extraction tests, etc), the identification of natural and synthetic dyes was carried out. First, mainly based on the results of extraction tests, 11 fabric samples were divided into two categories : eight with natural and three with synthetic dye. From the ultraviolet-visible absorption spectra of the extracts the eight natural-dyed samples were found to have been dyed with Gromwell root. In all three synthetic-dyed samples the dye class was found to be basic dye. Basic Violet 14 was detected in one of these samples using ultraviolet-visible absorption spectroscopy. Our proposed analytical procedure was proved to be useful in the identification of natural and synthetic violet dyes used in kimono fabrics as well as the red dyes on which we focused in the previous paper.

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© 2014 Japanese Association for Clothing Studies
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