人体と和服との着装要因

下半身の着装と素材差

抄録

Practical experiments were done to try to find an easy way for wearing Kimono. Two kinds of materials were used for the experiment. With the heights of both the center of foot and Tsumasaki as key factors, shapes of foots, both at standing-still position and in walk action were orthographed and heights were measured. These were analized by the introduction of ternary arrangement method. Main results are shown in the following descriptions.
The material suggests that you wear a wool Kimono in light fashion since it functions casually. The experiments indicate that the cloth can fit the human body best and at the same time, can be very functional when the height of the center of foot is kept from 60 to 70 mm. On the contrary, keeping the Tsumasaki in high position causes the lift-up of foot and shrinking of its bottom. diameter and makes it difficult for the wearer to walk smoothly. Accordingly, when the Tsumasaki is in the same horizontal position with the center of foot the cloth is the most functional without causing any rise-up of the foot.
Situation requires that a crepe Kimono should be worn gracefully positioning the foot low. It suggests that the cloth be worn with the center of the foot 10 mm high. In this case some considerations must be given to the height of the Tsumasaki. A small drape modulus and drooping quality of the material naturally positions the Tsumasaki low.
The low positioning is also caused by the fact that the waist is lowered by approximately 30 mm when the human body is in walking action. Therefore you can wear crepe cloth beautifully by keeping Tsumasaki higher than the center of foot by 40 mm even when the height of the foot is kept low. It avoids the drooping of the Tsumasaki when the wearer walks.