Journal of the Meteorological Society of Japan. Ser. II
Online ISSN : 2186-9057
Print ISSN : 0026-1165
ISSN-L : 0026-1165
On the Ocean Waves due to Tropical Cyclones (3rd paper). Mean Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods
S. Unoki
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1957 Volume 35 Issue 5 Pages 297-309


Arranging various kinds of wave materials obtained by visual observations from weather ships or military planes for ninety five typhoons, several maps showing the mean distribution of wave heights and periods were constructed, and the relation of wave heights and periods to the speed and the central pressure of the storm vas discussed. Moreover, the rate of decrease of waves with the distance from the storm center and the difference of wave distribution among quadrants in the storm were investigated. From the results thus obtained, empirical formulas and diagrams were derived, which will serve as a first approximation for the calculation of wave heights and periods, although discrepancies between calculated and observed values are not always small because of the variety of wave distribution and the complicated spectral structure of storm waves.

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