Characteristics of the Wave Breaking Model on the Production and Dissipation Process of Turbulence

Abstract

Wave breaking model composed of the time dependent bore model and one-equation turbulence model has been proposed for Boussinesq-type wave transformation model. The validity of the model has already been evaluated on the calculated wave profiles in many reports, but the production and dissipation process of turbulence during calculation of wave breaking have not been discussed well yet. In this report, the appropriate turbulence scale which is required in calculation of them is estimated with comparison between the calculated and measured distribution of wave height in surf zone. Moreover, the calculation process of spatial distribution of the turbulence energy and the eddy viscosity in the model is grasped on a regular wave breaking on a slopping beach.