全国波浪観測データを活用したうねり性波浪の伝播特性について

抄録

Recently, the disaster that high waves attack any coastal area increases. For example, the caissons were moved by extreme forces of long period waves in Kuji port, Iwate Prefecture in 2006 or the boat was capsized by the high waves suddenly appeared in a calm weather in the Kurihama Bay, Kanagawa Prefecture in 2004. Such waves are caused by the swell propagated into the shallow water. In this study, the characteristics of the swell propagations along Japanese coast are classified by using ‘TIME LAG’ defined by cross-correlation analysis on swell data observed at several stations in NOWPHAS