海岸工学論文集
Online ISSN : 1884-8222
Print ISSN : 0916-7897
ISSN-L : 0916-7897
正弦波造波に伴う2倍周波数成分の浅水変形, 砕波および汀線付近の波高に及ぼす影響
宮前 伸池田 仁関 克己水口 優
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ジャーナル フリー

2008 年 55 巻 p. 56-60

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Sinusoidal wave generation in shallow water produces higher order free waves. These high frequency free waves are responsiblefor wave height fluctuation in a wave flume. The wave height fluctuations are measured on a sloping bottom, and shown to be explained by KdV models. These high frequency waves also affects wave breaking and wave heightdecay after breaking, since phase difference between primary waves and second order free waves causes significantchange in local wave profile. Role of phase difference is confirmed by a series of experiment with varied slope locationrelative to wave maker

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© 社団法人 土木学会
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