太平洋沿岸域における海上風と風波の変動特性に関する研究

抄録

This paper is intended to investigate the spectral characteristics of sea winds and wind waves on the Pacific coast. Time variations of the significant wave heights and periods have been also discussed in relation with time variations of sea winds in order to investigate mechanism of the growth of the wind waves. In the initial stage of the wind wave, high frequency components grow up and then the lower frequency components are developed. The linear relationship between the significant wave height and wind intensity has been confirmed for the swell propagating from far field. The boomerang-liked istribution has been found in the relationshipb etween the significant wave height and period.