STUDY ON BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AND WAVE INDUCED VELOCITY FIELD IN PERMEABLE BEACH

Abstract

Beach profile change has been investigated in relation to velocity field inside and outside of permeable beach. Velocity field on shore and swash zone has been obtained by conducting numerical simulations and model experiments. In the experiments, water surface change has been measured using run-up gage covered with finewire mesh and compared to verify the numerical simulation results. Infiltration flow has been found to play an important role on sediment transport. It is also revealed that sediment transport and formation process of gravel beach can be well explained by considering of kinetics on beach.