リーフ上とその周辺の波による流れ場の形成に関する数値計算とその検証

抄録

Wave-induced currents in a surf zone have been simulated with Boussinesq-type wave transformation model considering wave breaking and runup. In this paper, two kinds of the averaged current fields estimated by different ways are shown. One is calculated with the gradient of radiation stress given by the distribution of wave height and the other is directly given by momentum flux, simulated in surf zone.
Both the averaged current fields estimated by the numerical simulation on a sloping beach or an actual reef agree with the results of model experiments in the flow pattern and velocity. Thus, it is confirmed that the depth-averaged flows in surf zone are calculated by using Boussinesq-type wave transformation model with good accuracy though the vertical distributions of water flow including the undertow are not focused.