離岸流の発生間隔の予測式

抄録

On the basis of conservation equations of mass and momentum fluxes of waves, a predictive equation of intervals of rip currents was proposed. The equation was compared with the field data and the effectiveness was confirmed. The interval of rip currents is given by Y_r=0.197·T·√gH_b (tanβ)^-1 using the parameters of wave characteristics and seabed slope. Also the ratio of the interval of rip currents relative to the breaker width is given by Y_r/B=0.79·(H_o/L_o)^-0.535(tanβ)^0.27