サーフィンに適する波と人工リーフの関係
1991 年 7 巻 p. 113-118
詳細
1991 年 7 巻 p. 113-118
After drawing up the left-lettraction diagrams for variable incident waves at the famous surf-riding points in East Shikoku, it was found that the wave convergence and the peel angle (left-lettraction angle at breaking point) were important factors at surfriding. Further, the characteristics of breakers and their peel velocity were measured at straight reef models exposed obliquely in the incident waves.
