調合香料の質の選択法と評価法について

分析機器を使用した香料の質の選択, 評価, 管理の数値的表現方法

抄録

It is a well-known fact that, in choosing and evaluating compound perfume that is fit for the aim of cosmetic base, it is nesessary for us cosmetic chemists to take into consideration, as a basic idea, its colour, change in colour, change in odour, solubility, effect upon emulsification, the problems of irritation and allergy and other conditions, not to speak of the quality of its colur.
When the compound perfume itself and change in quality of the perfume prepared by odouring the base are evaluated from the standpoint that compound perfume appeals to the sense and therefore has much that is psychological, choice and evalution are made by the subjective element though human sense of smell and vision, and further though the sensuous examination by a group of the exained called “panel examination”.
Since compound perfume is an integrated product of various kinds of chemical substances, it is a matter of course that physical and chemical change should take place, and it can well be imagined that discolouration and change in odour with the lapse of time. I think that, considering that compound perfume is not merely the product of sensuous mixture, the examination of the conditions of discolouration and change in odour requires not only judgement based on a subjective view, psycological and physiological, by means of human sense, but also objective data obtained by means of physical analyzers. I have found that not merely by the discriminating method conducted by experienced persons only, but also by an objective method (qualitative and quantitative method) the numerical expression can be applied to the choice, evaluation and control of the quality of compound perfumes.