2012 Volume 53 Issue 6 Pages 450-460
This paper proposes a basic low-rise straight skirt pattern designed for individual body shapes and sizes. Anthropometry and draping of low-rise straight skirt were done for 52 young women ranging in age from 20 to 29 years old. Single/multiple regression analysis, using the coordinate values obtained for the measurements of developed figures as the objective variables, was done to obtain the prediction formulas for low-rise straight skirt figures for individuals.
From the results of the measurements of the developed figures, it was appropriate that the LWL(low-rise waist line) in the center back was higher than in the center front, posterior dart values were larger than anterior dart values on the low-rise straight skirt basic pattern. And the positions of anterior and posterior darts close to the center front/back line on a low-rise straight skirt basic pattern were closer compared to those on a straight skirt pattern. The front/back skirt breadth, showed a close correlation with the convex hull of the lower body [HLp], and was predicted by the single regression analysis. The front/back LWL height was affected by the length of diagonal line on the lumbar side view and the anteversio degree of the lower body. For the X-coordinate items of the first point of the darts, the circumference/breadth/depth of the lumbar were extracted as the size/shape factors for anterior and posterior darts. For the Y-coordinate items of the height of the dart points, the length of diagonal line on the lumbar front view, the physical relationship of the abdominal breadth and the hip breadth, the buttock peak was the primary factor. Finally, the goodness of fit of the low-rise straight skirt was evaluated by 6 subjects through a wearing test with 1% maximum error on the prediction equations of the pattern.
