2003 Volume 44 Issue 1 Pages 46-55
No consideration has been paid on arms themselves or the relationship between arms and trunk in the occasion of the measurement of human body for clothing design. This study has conducted a measurement of arms and trunks with the view to contribute to the improvement of the system of drafting the patterns of sleeves. First, photographs have been taken of the shadow images of 92 adult women of twenties years old, as orthographic projection in a normal standing position. Next, we have measured the forms of their arms and trunks to obtain the data necessary for drafting the patterns of sleeves. Then, we have conducted a principal component analysis (PCA) using the data of the said items. The findings of this study are as follows:
1) The results of the measurements revealed that the average value of the tangent angles of the arm surfaces (TAS) in the front view was about +3 degrees. Though it has generally been recommended that sleeves should be attached vertically, this finding suggests that they should be slightly slanted outward according to various body forms.
2) The results of the PCA (factor loading over |0.5|) revealed that the horizontal distance between the shoulder point (SP) and the line tangent to the surface of the arm constituted one of the variables in the principal component (PC) that contained the item indicating the obesity/slenderness as a variable. In the second phase PCA with a reduced member of items, it also constituted one of the variables in the PC that contained the TAS as a variable. Moreover, the difference between the shoulder breadth and the hip breadth constituted one of the variables in the PC that contained the TAS as a variable. These data will be useful for clothing design. In addition, it was clarified that the angle indicating the placement of the SP and the slant angle of the upper arm in the side view constituted the variables in one of the PC, and that the slant angle of the upper trunk and the flexion angle of the arm in the side view also constituted the variables in one of the PC. These data, which have not so far been fully presented in the former studies, will be useful in improving the system of drafting the patterns of sleeves.
