Hand feeling of Flat Crape made of “AKEBONO” and “SAKIGAKE” raw silk

Abstract

  The new silkworm race cocoon which have a characteristic size of cocoon filament has been developed recently, accordingly for the purpose to find out the suitability for clothing material, the texture of flat crape had been weaved by using “AKEBONO” and “SAKIGAKE” raw silk, and the specific quality of texture were estimated by KES―FB measuring system.
  For the dynamical specific values, B, LT, WT, RT, EMT values of “AKEBONO” were observed as small compared with the control sample, as for the “SAKIGAKE” B, LT, RT values were large, while the WT, EMT values were small.
  The texture made of “AKEBONO” were observed as soft, however, as to the recovery of deformation, it can be hardly to say that they are excellent.
  The texture of “SAKIGAKE” was observed as solid, but the recovery nature was assessed as excellent.
  As for the Hand Value, both of them showed the standard values as to the women's thin dress regarding to the “Koshi” （Stiffness）, “Hari” （Anti―drape stiffness）and “Shinayakasa” （Flexibility with soft feeling）etc., except only “Fukurami”（Fullness and softness）was small. Especially, “Koshi” and “Hari” of “SAKIGAKE” were estimated as the large values.
  It has been confirmed that the flat crape made of “AKEBONO” and “SAKIGAKE” raw silk satisfied enough as to the women's thin dress, and especially it was recognized that the “SAKIGAKE” can be expected as the new material.