2018 Volume 26 Pages 31-40
Raw silk and silk fabric used for kimonos have been studied, but few studies have examined their use in Western clothes. Therefore, for eight silkworm race varieties, breeding, cocoon drying, and reeling were conducted in this study under identical conditions. Various tests were conducted under identical conditions of refining and twisting of the material yarn, yarn thickness, weaving structure, etc.
First, a sensory evaluation test was conducted with yarn, but it was difficult for clothing experts to evaluate threads. Preliminary results indicated that evaluation with fabric is suitable for more accurate evaluation.
Next, sensory fiber tests and evaluation tests of fabrics woven under the same conditions were conducted using various instruments. Results of the sensory evaluation tests revealed the silkworm varieties that were most suitable for European clothing production. The silk had characteristics of retention of three-dimensional form, softness, lightness, and wrinkle resistance. It can be said that silk characteristics required for Western clothes are silk fabrics with stiffness to retain their three-dimensional form, softness, and wrinkle resistance. Finally, after selecting four fabrics corresponding to silkworm varieties, we made blouses having the same pattern. Results of sensory evaluation tests of the prototyped blouses clarified that differences of the forms of the blouse derive from silkworm variety fiber characteristics. Results also clarified the characteristics that are necessary for Western clothing.