Sen'i Gakkaishi
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
Volume 58, Issue 6
Displaying 1-13 of 13 articles from this issue
Columns
Commentations
Series - State of the art of fiber technologies
Series - Museum
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  • Kinya Kumazawa, Hidekazu Takahashi, Hiroshi Tabata, Mie Yoshimura, Sus ...
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 195-201
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The goniophotometric reflection properties of interference-colored fibers, based on the mechanism producing the brilliant tropical blue color of the wings of male Morpho Sulkowskyi, were compared with those of dyed fibers. When an incident light was applied parallel to the fiber axis, the shape of the goniophotometric reflection curve of the dyed fibers showed a broad distribution with the maximum quantity of reflected light occurring at nearly a specular angle. On the other hand, that of the interference-colored fibers showed an extremely sharp distribution with the maximum quantity of reflected light occurring at about a specular angle. In contrast, when an incident light was applied vertical to the fibers, both the dyed and interference-colored fibers showed broad distribution curves with the maximum quantity of reflected light occurring in a region larger than the specular angle. Based on these results, the contrast gloss of both types of fiber was estimated. Compared with the contrast gloss of the dyed fibers, that of the interference-colored fibers was extremely large. It is thought that this difference in contrast gloss might be mainly attributable to the alternating multilayer structure of the interference-colored fibers.
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  • Yachiyo Yamauchi, Harumi Morooka, Hideo Morooka, Masahiro Sano, Nobuo ...
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 202-208
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    This study aimed to clarify the effects of moisture-absorption processing using silk-protein on the performance of seat covers. The sample covers used were three sorts of fabrics and four sorts of leathers. The fabric samples were made from 100% polyester, one without processing which was used as a blank, and then, two with processing which differed in the concentration of silk-protein. The leather samples used were one of natural cow leather, and three of PVC leather, one without processing and two with processing which differed in the contents of silk-protein. To investigate the effects, we measured the moisture regain, the thermal and mechanical properties, and carried out sedentary tests using five subjects. The results are summarized as follows.
    1) The moisture regain of the covers increased with the contents of silk-protein and the quantity of silk-protein adhered to the materials. In the leather samples, the increase in moisture regain brought about an increase in the water vapor transmission.
    2) In the sweating and insensible perspiration simulation tests, the latent heat loss of the samples with the processing was higher than the blank sample without processing. In the sedentary tests, the samples with the processing showed significantly lower humidity between the seat covers and the human body than the blank sample.
    3) The characteristic properties of the leather samples with the moisture-absorption processing tended to be similar to those of the natural leather in the compressive properties and bending rigidity and the maximum values of initial heat flux. The samples with the processing had lower the sticky feeling than blank sample.
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  • Shigeyuki Nakano, Ahmed EL Salmawy, Tetsuro Nakamura, Yoshiharu Kimura
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 209-215
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Chain-extended poly(butylene succinate) (PBS-e) and poly(butylene succinate/adipate) (PBSA-e) as well as high polymers of poly(butylene succinate-co-carbonate) (PBSC) and poly(butylene succinate-co-ε-hydroxycaproate) (PBSCL) were melt-spun into mono-filament fibers by the on-line spinning and drawing technique. The mechanical properties and degradability of these fibers were totally compared in reference to those of the poly(butylene succinate) homopolymer (PBS) and poly(butylene succinate-co-L-lactate) (PBSL). It was found that the tensile strength of the drawn fibers decreases in the order of PBSA-e>> PBS-h> PBSL> PBS-e> PBSC> PBSCL corresponding with the decreasing order of their molecular weight. Their enzymatic degradability was studied with a lipase originated from Pseudomonas cepacia. It was found that the rate of enzymatic degradation is in the order of PBSA-e> PBSC> PBSL> PBSCL>> PBS-e = PBS-h. This rate difference can be explained by the difference in crystal size and the polarity effect of the comonomer units that may affect the accessibility of the enzyme to the polymer chains.
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  • Kikuko Aoyama, Kozo Shimazaki
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 216-223
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The aim of this study is to clarify effects of the sewing condition, fabric properties on easing using the bottom and variable top feed sewing machine. The results obtained were as follows:
    (1) The seam shrinkage tended to increase with the ratio of differential feed. The relation between the seam shrinkage and the angle between weft and sewing directions was equated with the sine curve by using the experimental values of seam shrinkage obtained from 4-directional sewing(45°, 90°, 135° and 180°).
    (2) The apparent slippage of fabric on the main feed dog(LB') was predicted using the seam shrinkage and stitch length. LB' tended to increase with the ratio of differential feed. The relationship between LB' and the angle between weft and sewing directions was approximated with the cosine curve by using the calculated values of LB' obtained from 4-directional sewing(45°, 90°, 135° and 180°).
    (3) The relation between the seam shrinkage and fabric properties was considered by means of the multiple regression analysis. The important factors which influence easing were the product of two tensile strains EM1 × EM2, bending rigidity B and fabric thickness d, where EM1 and B were obtained from the KES-System along the sewing direction and EM2 was obtained from the direction perpendicular to the seam line.
    (4) The relationship between EM1 × EM2 and the angle between weft and sewing directions was approximated with the sine curve by using 4-directional measured values of fabric using KES-System. The relationship between B and the angle between weft and sewing directions was also approximated using same way as mentioned above.
    (5) It was shown that the seam shrinkage under the desired condition could be predicted quite well using the two methods shown in this study.
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  • Momoko Sugimura, Mitsuo Matsudaira
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 224-231
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The purpose of this study is to evaluate aesthetic appearance of flared skirts in dynamic state objectively. We studied the relationship between subjective values obtained from sensory test of moving skirts' appearance and mechanical parameters, shear and bending vibrational properties of those fabrics. We selected mechanical and vibrational parameters for an objective evaluation equation of beautiful appearance of moving flared skirts by cluster analysis of those mechanical and vibrational parameters. By using those parameters obtained from cluster analysis, the equation to describe aesthetic appearance of moving flared skirts objectively was derived for “flowing”, “rhythmical”, “blowy” and “beautiful” one. The total beautiful appearance of flared skirts in dynamic state was evaluated mainly by flowing and rhythmical moving subjectively. The compound mechanical parameters such as 3√(B/W), √(2HB/W), 3√(G/W) and static drape coefficient explaining static silhouettes of flared skirts showed good correlation with “flowing”, “rhythmical” and “beautiful” moving of flared skirts. Therefore those parameters might influence dynamic silhouettes of flared skirts.
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  • Won Young Jeong, Seung Kook An
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 232-237
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Breathable waterproof fabrics manufactured by wet coating, dry coating, PTFE-laminating, and PTFE-knitted lining laminating processes were selected to investigate the changes of mechanical properties and tailoring performances. Most of the breathable waterproof finishings are carried out on fabric substrates, so various physical properties are significantly changed not only in feeling of wearing but also in tailoring process. In this study, various characteristic values related with tailoring performance were evaluated. Shear characteristics in the coating types significantly increased with finishing except wet coating type with floating knife, and laminated fabrics also increased in G, 2HG, 2HG5, which depended on the adhesive and laminated membrane. Formability and sewability increased and decreased after finishing, respectively, and dry coated fabrics showed remarkable changes on these tailoring factors. From the examination of the penetrating behavior of the needle into the fabrics, all kinds of breathable waterproof finishing play a significant role in obstructing needle penetrating. Penetration force, frictional force, and penetration energy increased with finishing and plying numbers. The changes were different with finishing methods, and the results were partially confirmed from the broken shape of the stitch holes.
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  • Tetsuya Takahashi
    Article type: scientific monograph
    Subject area: Infomation Science
    2002 Volume 58 Issue 6 Pages 238-247
    Published: 2002
    Released on J-STAGE: October 15, 2002
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The effect of maleic anhydride grafted polypropylene (hereafter "MAH-PP") on the structure of blend fibers of polypropylene (PP) and polyamide 6 (PA6) was investigated. Although undrawn fibers of pure PP or PA6 do not show crystalline orientation, undrawn blend fibers without MAH-PP show low crystalline orientation. Moreover, in undrawn blend fibers containing MAH-PP, distinct crystalline orientation of PP was observed. In the case of drawn fibers, blend fibers containing MAH-PP in an amount of 10 phr or more showed broader diffraction peaks of PA6 crystals in wide-angle X-ray diffraction than did blend fibers having an MAH-PP content of 5 phr or less or pure PA6 fibers. Small-angle X-ray diffraction clearly showed that, in all blend fibers, the long period structure does not depend on MAH-PP content. When the blend fibers were annealed at 180°C, which is higher than the melting point of PP, one scattering peak was observed in blend fibers having MAH-PP content of 10 phr or more. In contrast, two scattering peaks were observed in blend fibers having an MAH-PP content of 5 phr or less.
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