繊維学会誌
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
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59 巻, 8 号
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連載＜やさしい繊維基礎講座＞
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  • Evaluation of Changes in Fine Structures of Regenerated Cellulose Due to Thermal Molecular Motion in Solvents
    Rumiko Fujioka, Sei-ich Manabe
    2003 年 59 巻 8 号 p. 297-303
    発行日: 2003年
    公開日: 2004/09/30
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.59.297
    ジャーナル フリー
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    We intended to evaluate quantitatively the relaxation behavior of chain orientation along fiber axis in specific amorphous regions of regenerated cellulose through refractive index measurement in solvents. The regenerated cellulose fiber that was represented by aggregates of spherical primary particles of ca 15 nm was employed as a well-defined regenerated cellulose sample. Temperature-dependence of birefringence Δn in hydrophilic or hydrophobic solvents was mainly measured by the freezing method. In hydrophilic solvents, the micro-Brownian motion of chain segments in amorphous regions was activated by diffusion of the solvent into the region related to each absorption. The relaxation of the chain orientation was accelerated by this diffusion. The relaxation was observed as an abrupt fall of Δn. It is possible to ascertain the region into which solvent molecules can diffuse from the temperature at which this relaxation arises. The degree of chain orientation within specific amorphous regions can be evaluated from the amount of relaxation of Δn. Thermal expansion anisotropy caused by the chain orientation could be evaluated quantitatively from the temperature-dependence of Δn (δΔn ⁄ δT) in the temperature range where relaxation did not take place. In the case of regenerated cellulose, ethylene glycol is the optimal solvent for evaluation of the relaxation behavior and the value of δΔn ⁄ δT.
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  • 炭酸カルシウム共沈⁄原子吸光法によるセルロース繊維含有マグネシウムの簡便分析・評価
    杉本 太
    2003 年 59 巻 8 号 p. 304-310
    発行日: 2003年
    公開日: 2004/09/30
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.59.304
    ジャーナル フリー
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    The calcium carbonate coprecipitation method was studied for simplified determination of content of magnesium in cellulose fibers of cotton, ramie and rayon by flame atomic absorption spectrometry (F-AAS). All sample of cellulose fiber (about two grams) were dissolved with 200 ml of 70 % sulfuric acid, and 0.2-5 ml aliquots from sample solution were diluted to 100 ml with distilled water, following by adding dropwise of sodium hydroxide solution until the solution became neutralization by pH meter. A 15 ml of 8 gCa⁄l calcium chloride and 15 ml of 20 w⁄v% potassium carbonate were added to sample solution containing magnesium ion. Magnesium ion was quantitatively coprecipitated with calcium carbonate. The precipitate was collected onto a membrane filter (0.45 μm) and then dissolved with dipping for 15 min in 10 ml of HCl (1+11). The solution was made up to 100 ml with distilled water to prepare the sample solution for F-AAS. The detection limit for magnesium was 0.2 μg (3σ), and the lower limit of determination was 0.6 μg (10σ). This method was influenced neither neutralization of sulfuric acid nor coexistence materials (pectin, protein, ash, etc.) in fiber, and was satisfactorily applied to determine by F-AAS of magnesium ion in cellulose fiber. The removal rate of magnesium ion was ca. 50 % for scouring and bleaching yarn and ca. 90 % for acid treatment yarn based on raw cotton yarn.
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  • 紙のワイヤーマークの歪みに関する考察
    宮田 瞳, 篠崎 真
    2003 年 59 巻 8 号 p. 311-318
    発行日: 2003年
    公開日: 2004/09/30
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.59.311
    ジャーナル フリー
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    The authors have proposed a non-destructive method for discriminating between different types of paper using image analysis, Fourier transformation, and cross-correlation matching; i.e., fast Fourier transform (FFT) is used to extract the periodicity in the structure of paper that results from the manufacturing processes. Cross-correlation matching quantifies the similarity between power spectra (PS). In applications of this method to photocopier paper and newsprints, however, some of numerical similarity calculations were not successful. To clarify the difficulty, this paper describes the changes of wire-marks; changes of wire-marks in paper with unused wire and with long-term-used wire and also cross direction wire-mark profile as well were examined. Position changes in the coordinates of typical power peaks in PS were carefully examined; a top most peak (or bottom most) can be considered to stand for typical horizontal periodicity, and a right most (or left most as well) one for typical vertical periodicity as well. Results showed; (1) no plastic elongation was observed after the wire had been used for a long period, (2) wire-marks in paper was elongated in machine direction and shrunk in cross direction comparing to the periodicity in the original wire itself. And (3) wire-mark profile showed some distortion of power spectrum in cross direction. (3) can be considered as a cause of difficulty of the discrimination of paper.
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  • Men's Shirt Pattern Design Part Ⅰ: An Experimental Evaluation of Shirt Pattern Drafting Methods
    A. P. Chan, J. Fan, W. Yu.
    2003 年 59 巻 8 号 p. 319-327
    発行日: 2003年
    公開日: 2004/09/30
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.59.319
    ジャーナル フリー
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    This is part Ⅰ of the two-parts series of papers dealing with the pattern drafting of men's dress shirts. Although there has been many published shirt pattern drafting methods, the appropriateness of such drafting methods for different body morphology has not been validated with systematic experiments. This paper reports on an experimental evaluation of the shirt pattern drafting methods from four tailoring experts. 19 men's dress shirts were made by an experienced tailor, each providing best fit to 19 Chinese male subjects having a wide variation of body shape, respectively. The shirt patterns were traced and their dimensions were compared with those calculated from the pattern drafting formulae of the four tailoring experts. It was found that the best-fit patterns deviated much from the patterns calculated from the existing shirt pattern drafting formulae. It is believed that the existing pattern drafting formulae may only be appropriate for a narrow group of people. For a large population, an improved pattern drafting method needs to be developed.
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  • Men's Shirt Pattern Design Part Ⅱ: Prediction of Pattern Parameters from 3D Body Measurements
    A. P. Chan, J. Fan, W. Yu.
    2003 年 59 巻 8 号 p. 328-333
    発行日: 2003年
    公開日: 2004/09/30
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.59.328
    ジャーナル フリー
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    Part Ⅰ of this two part series of papers has shown that existing pattern drafting methods are much less than adequate for drafting patterns to fit a wide range of body morphology. To solve this problem, this paper considers predicting shirt pattern parameters from 3D body measurements. Two prediction models are reported in the paper. One is established using multiple linear regression and the other using the Artificial Neural Network (ANN). It shows that the ANN model can predict the pattern parameters very accurately, but the linear regression model has the advantage of showing the relationship between the pattern parameters and the specific body measurements. This work is believed to be important to the implementation of apparel mass customization.
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