Sen'i Gakkaishi
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
Volume 60, Issue 8
Displaying 1-9 of 9 articles from this issue
Column
Feature
Commentation
Transactions
  • Kuniko Matsunashi, Kozo Shimazaki
    2004 Volume 60 Issue 8 Pages 245-251
    Published: 2004
    Released on J-STAGE: February 09, 2006
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    We examined the bending property of fabric blind-stitched with interlining and verified that the bending rigidity and 2HB by KES system changed with the amount of needle penetration and the spacing between stitch lines. As a simulation of lapel sewing using optional outer fabric and interlining, the sewing condition for blind-stitch machine was set up by using the results obtained in the previous paper. It was shown that the actual amount of needle penetration agreed well with the predicted one, indicating that the simulation was very useful. It was also shown that the configuration of stitched lapel was effected by sewing factors such as the amount of needle penetration and the spacing between stitch lines.
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  • Technical Papers
    • Dong Seok Jeong, Muncheul Lee, Kenji Nishi, Takako Tokuyama, Tomiji Wa ...
      2004 Volume 60 Issue 8 Pages 252-256
      Published: 2004
      Released on J-STAGE: February 09, 2006
      JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
      Previously, we reported that polyester fabric could be dyed with vat dyes by the pad / dry / thermosol process at 210oC adding sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. In this study, polyester cr?pe de chine (Toray, Sillook Sildew) was dyed with twenty vat dyes by the thermosol process in presence of the dye dissolving agents such as urea, PEG and glycerine. Color depth increased by adding urea in the padding solution, but the dye penetration in a fiber was only in surface area. Although color depth decreased by the soaping and subsequent five times home laundering, comparably medium dyeing color depth was obtained. On the other hand, color fastness to dry and wet rubbing decreased apparently especially for dry rubbing, whereas sublimation, chlorine, and light fastness were almost no problems. Therefore, it seems that polyester fabric could be dyed with vat dyes by means of thermosol process like a disperse dyeing of polyester fabric.
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    Notes
    • Masaki Uehara, Asuka Sakaue, Yoshihiko Onogi
      2004 Volume 60 Issue 8 Pages 257-260
      Published: 2004
      Released on J-STAGE: February 09, 2006
      JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
      Cotton fiber has its own complicated convolutions caused by helicoidal orientation of cellulose fibrils in the secondary cell membrane. This helicoidal orientation has been deduced to be caused by the earth's rotation during fibril development. To confirm this, the optical rotation power of cotton fibers cultivated in various countries was measured using a polarizing microscope. The optical rotation power of Z-type convolution parts in cotton fibers cultivated in the northern hemisphere was greater than that of the S-type convolution parts. On the other hand, for cotton fibers cultivated in the southern hemisphere, the optical rotation power of the S-type convolution parts was greater than that of the Z-type parts. This tendency was found to differ markedly for cotton fibers cultivated in areas located at different distances from the equator.
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