繊維学会誌
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
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60 巻, 8 号
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  • すくい縫いミシンによるラペル部の芯地縫製シミュレーションおよび縫製因子とラペル形状の関係
    松梨 久仁子, 島崎 恒藏
    2004 年 60 巻 8 号 p. 245-251
    発行日: 2004年
    公開日: 2006/02/09
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.60.245
    ジャーナル フリー
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    We examined the bending property of fabric blind-stitched with interlining and verified that the bending rigidity and 2HB by KES system changed with the amount of needle penetration and the spacing between stitch lines. As a simulation of lapel sewing using optional outer fabric and interlining, the sewing condition for blind-stitch machine was set up by using the results obtained in the previous paper. It was shown that the actual amount of needle penetration agreed well with the predicted one, indicating that the simulation was very useful. It was also shown that the configuration of stitched lapel was effected by sewing factors such as the amount of needle penetration and the spacing between stitch lines.
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    • 技術報文
    • ポリエステル織物のサーモゾル法によるバット染料染色
      鄭 東石, 李 文？K, 西 謙二, 徳山 孝子, 脇田 登美司, 土井 千鶴子
      2004 年 60 巻 8 号 p. 252-256
      発行日: 2004年
      公開日: 2006/02/09
      DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.60.252
      ジャーナル フリー
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      Previously, we reported that polyester fabric could be dyed with vat dyes by the pad / dry / thermosol process at 210oC adding sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. In this study, polyester cr?pe de chine (Toray, Sillook Sildew) was dyed with twenty vat dyes by the thermosol process in presence of the dye dissolving agents such as urea, PEG and glycerine. Color depth increased by adding urea in the padding solution, but the dye penetration in a fiber was only in surface area. Although color depth decreased by the soaping and subsequent five times home laundering, comparably medium dyeing color depth was obtained. On the other hand, color fastness to dry and wet rubbing decreased apparently especially for dry rubbing, whereas sublimation, chlorine, and light fastness were almost no problems. Therefore, it seems that polyester fabric could be dyed with vat dyes by means of thermosol process like a disperse dyeing of polyester fabric.
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