Skin safety of cleansing products in the cosmetic and toiletry field has been much more improved than the previous ones. However, patients with overtreatment dermatitis are sometimes seen at our clinic. Friction melanosis is a representative overtreatment dermatosis. Most of overtreatments in patients with atopic dermatitis are everyday's shampooing, especially in the morning. It is necessary to make a proper skin care, depending on the individual skin condition.

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Scalp surface lipid (SSL) is one of the important parameters for the physiological study of human scalp. We investigated the refatting rate on the four sites (vertical, frontal, occipital, temporal) of the head in different seasons, before and 2, 24, 48hrs after shampooing. Forty normal females aged between 27 and 52 years were employed as subjects, and the Lipid Meter (Ricoh Co.) was used for measuring SSL. Following results were obtained:
1. SSL began to be secreted immediately after shampooing and returned to the level of before shampooing in 24hrs.
2. The refatting rate on the scalp depends on sites of the head: SSL was produced in the vertical and frontal sites almost from twice to thrice as much as that of the occipital and temporal ones.
3. No seasonal difference was observed in the reffatting rate on each of the three sites of the head except frontal site.

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Our previous study showed that after shampooing, scalp surface lipid (SSL) returned to the before level in 24hrs. In this communication, we investigated the relation between the refatting rate on the scalp 24hrs after shampooing and those on the forehead and the cheek 2hrs after cleansing, in terms of age and skin type. Eighty-two normal females aged between 20 and 57 years were employed as subjects, and the Lipid Meter (Ricoh Co.) was used for measuring SSL as before.
Following results were obtained;
1. The vertical and frontal sites of the head showed almost the same refatting rate as the forehead, and the temporal site showed the refatting rate similar to the cheek.
2. SSL was significantly more produced in the group of females in their 20s and 30s than in the group in their 40s and 50s.
3. The refatting rate on the scalp was correlated with skin type: SSL was more produced in the oily and the oily with dry surface skin than in the normal and the dry skin.
4. It was suggested that the greasiness of one's scalp coud be better estimated from their skin type rather than their sense of greasiness of the scalp.

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Quantitative studies were carried out into the fundamental measurements on human hair growth by the method using the optical microscope and image analysis, which was already developed.
The hair growth was studied with this method as to the regional differences between frontal, vertical, occipital and temporal regions using 14 healthy male subjects. The study revealed that the temporal hairs had the fastest growth rate, followed by the occipital, vertical and frontal hairs in descending order, and the ratios of resting or slow growing hair (hairs with a growth rate of 0.2mm/day or less) were quite reverse order in contrast with the growth rate. Then, age-related changes of hair growth were examined using 28 male subjects. It was learned that a decrease in the hair growth rate, terminal hair density, hair diameter and an increase in the ratios of resting or slow growing hair were significant with aging. This was remarkable in the vertical region. In addition, in the vertical region positive correlation was noted between the hair growth rate and the number of terminal hairs, whereas negative correlation was observed between the hair growth rate and the number of vellus hair.
Further, the hair growth was investigated using healthy and alopecia subjects. It was found that in the vertical region the hair growth rate was lower by 50% and the ratio of resting or slow growing hair was about 3 fold higher in the alopecia subjects than in the healthy subjects.
Finally, the effects of hair tonics on hair growth of alopecia subjects was studied by evaluating the hair growth before and after use of the test tonic or the control tonic for 6 months. The growth rate increased and the ratio of resting or slow growing hair decreased in the test tonic group. But, the former decreased and the latter increased in the control tonic group.

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The subjective grading and objective measurements were carried out on the hair growth of the androgenic alopecia subjects, and the correlation between the grading and the measurements was investigated for the evalution of alopecia. As a result, hair growth rate, the ratio of slow growing or resting hairs, hair diameter or the ratio of vellus hair correlated well with the stage of baldness, and it was suggested those parameters could be used as a fine index for the evaluation of hair growers.
Two dimentional analysis by growth rate and diameter was made for typical patterns of hair growth, and investigated as the index of the baldness degree. The ratio of hair having higher growth rate and thicher diameter significantly decresed aaccording as the degree of baldness increased, and the ratio was investigated as the index of balding degree. It was concluded that the more accurate evaluation of alopecia could be attained with this index than the subjcetive grading only.

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Bovine Submaxillary Gland Mucin (BSM) refers to Glycoprotein secreted by the bovine submaxillary gland. BSM, which is composed of many oligosaccharide chaine combined with the protein frame, features a high content of Sialic acid. It is reported that in vivo BSM covers food and the digested residues to function as lubricant as well as to prevent a mucous membrane from being mechanically damaged by food, etc., when they are moving in the digestive organs.
We noticed this unique chemical structure of BSM to evaluate its applica-bility as cosmetic in terms of moisture maintainability, affinity to skin texture, etc.
Prepared BSM contained 24% of sialic acid and 30% of protein, while the molecular weight was 1-6×10⁴ according to the method of SDS gel electrophoresis. BSM presented a high moisture absorbency hardly subject to the atmospheric humidity, with the absorbent effect ranging between those of sodium hyaluronate and collagen. BSM exhibited an excellent adhesion to strutum corneum, thus suggesting its possible effect on skin protection. Moreover, BSM felt free from stickiness, refreshing and light on the skin, providing no make-up feeling.

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A stability of W/O emulsions was generally evaluated by the flocullation of dispersed phase in the short-term. Several studies with respect to the evaluation of stability of W/O emulsions have been reported, however, the coalescence of dispersed phase was discussed in only a few studies. Hence, we have examined the coalescence of dispersed phase in concentrated W/O emulsions in coexistence with various alcohols by evaluating of interfacial film strength. Addition of ethanol or 1, 3BG (1, 3 butylene glycol) in the dispersed phase induced the decrease of COS 82 (Sorbitan Sesquioleate) adsorbed at the water-squalane interface, but in contrast, addition of glycerol did not change the adsorption of COS 82. COS 82 formed firm hydrophobic gel with glycerol, but not with 1, 3BG. Interfacial film strength was evaluated by using the ratio of freezing enthalpy of the structured water to that of the free water measured by differencial scanning calorimeter (DSC) in the temperature range of -50°C to 10°C. In case of 1, 3BG, freezing enthalpy of the free water was increased by the repetition of freezing. These results suggested an acceleration of the coalescence of dispersed phase with the addition of 1, 3BG. In case of glycerol, it suggested a tendency to be stable.
DSC freeze-thawing method was closely correlated with the above and the stability at the room temperature.

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Sphingolipids are funcitionally important in the barrier function of the human stratum corneum. Free amino acids also play an important role in its water retention properties. To increase our understanding of the way in which these substances affect scaly skin, we investigated the change of sphingolipids and free amino acids in scaly skin induced by a surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). One week after the treatment, the total amount of amino acids was decreased and their composition was changed significantly. However, the total amount of sphingolipids did not differ from that in control skin. The order of the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipids evaluated by attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy (ATR-IR) did not change at all, and only the composition of five sphingolipids species changed significantly. These findings suggest that the abnormal morphology of the SC itself and the decline of amino acids are responsible for the dryness of the scaly skin.

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It is well-known that human biological systems produce chaotic behaviors such as rhythms of heart beat and plethysmograph. Odors are known to influence the psychophysiological state of a person, and produce fluctuations in plethysmographs regulated by autonomic system. In this study, we attempted to establish an index of psychophysiological responses induced by odors, using a feature of the chaotic behavior in plethysmograph. Such index could be extremely valuable in a research to characterize odors according to their responses in relation to human emotion.
We first confirmed the chaotic nature of the time-series data of plethysmographs. Correlation dimension, which reflects the chaotic characteristic of self-similarity in the plethysmograph, was estimated by the Grassberger-Procaccia method. Also investigated were relationships among correlation dimensions, physiological and psychological parameters including: 1) effects on correlation dimension of plethysmograph caused by changes in mental states when a pleasant or unpleasant odor is introduced, 2) relationships among psychological index and physiological parameters such as galvanic skin resistance and power spectrum of plethysmograph, 3) effects of physiological parameters on correlation dimension.
The results showed that: 1) correlation dimensions increased when unpleasant odor was introduced, 2) pleasant and unpleasant odors produced differences in galvanic skin resistance and power spectrum, 3) correlation dimension correlated with low-frequency component and ratio of power spectral components related to pleasure, displeasure and anxiety involved in emotion. It is concluded that the correlation dimension is sensitive to different odors and may be used as a reliable physiological index of pleasure and displeasure.

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Perilla was evaluated an anti-allergy activity in vitro and the clinical examination.
TNF was used as the indicator.
TNF, which is a kind of monokine produced by macrophage, shows the anti-tumor activity. The activity induced by TNF is well known as one of BRM (Biological Response Modifiers) mechanism, however, the excessive production of TNF causes unfavorable inflammation.
Therefore, a suppressive activity of perilla on TNF production was examined.
When the perilla extract was applied to mice, TNF production decreased one-third compard with the placibo.
We added perilla extract to skin cream, and gave a clinical examination to allergodermia patients. The results were good for many of the patients.

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