Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
Volume 47, Issue 1
Displaying 1-5 of 5 articles from this issue
Special Review
  • Toshiyuki Kashiwai
    2013 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 3-8
    Published: March 20, 2013
    Released on J-STAGE: August 22, 2015
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The states of the hair and the scalp change greatly with their age, sex, life style and favorite hairstyles. Since the hair is dead tissue, it does not have feeling, and as compared with other parts of the body, feeling of the scalp is blunt. Furthermore, it is difficult to watch the hair and the scalp by themselves. Therefore, it is hard to notice the change (aggravation) of the state. The mild washing technologies for the hair and the scalp which are different in character from other body parts are explained.
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Originals
  • Hidefumi Ikeda, Hideki Nishiura
    2013 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 9-18
    Published: March 20, 2013
    Released on J-STAGE: August 22, 2015
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Recently, the number of female consumers who recognize their own sensitive skin is increasing, and the cosmetic market for such consumers is also spreading. Since no in vitro method of testing safety for sensitive skin cosmetics has existed, safety tests have been performed with sensitive skin subjects. Therefore establishment of in vitro methods for sensitive skin cosmetics is desired. From the point of view of animal welfare, the cosmetic industries have used alternative methods without animal use increasingly. For these reasons, we tested a 13-day or 6-day cultured reconstructed human epidermal model, LabCyte EPI-MODEL, to clarify whether these skin models are suitable as tools for the safety tests targeted for sensitive skin, focusing on the loss of skin barrier function, one of the characteristics of sensitive skin. We confirmed that 6-day cultured models had thinner stratum corneum, a lower amount of ceramide contents and higher TEWL values than 13-day cultured models. Based on the results of the in vitro skin irritation tests, 6-day cultured models, which had immature stratum corneum, showed higher sensitivity to most chemicals or cosmetics than 13-day cultured models. Furthermore, we confirmed that longer exposure of substances on 6-day cultured models made the results more clear. These findings indicate that, using 6-day cultured LabCyte EPI-MODEL, we can evaluate the potential skin irritation levels of chemicals and cosmetics, and suggest the possibility that the model is one of the safety evaluation tools to develop cosmetics for sensitive skin.
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  • Kazutaka Sasaki, Masaki Kitajima, Kana Nishii, Tomoko Sekine, Kei Wata ...
    2013 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 19-25
    Published: March 20, 2013
    Released on J-STAGE: August 22, 2015
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Organoclay, which is prepared by exchanging the original interlayer cations of smectite mineral for quaternary alkyl-ammonium ions, is known to form a complex with surfactants in liquid paraffin or other oils and to give oil-gel. By adding an adequate amount of water, the oil-gel obtained from the complex can give a W/O type emulsion, which has been used in skincare cosmetics, foundations and other products. Conventionally, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane and silicone type surfactant have been used to provide the emulsion formulae having a good sensory-texture. In this study, for providing skincare products with high skin compatibility, new oil-gel and W/O emulsion formulae were attempted to be prepared with isohexadecane, which can give a higher smoothness and compatibility to the skin than that of decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane. By selecting suitable nonionic surfactants for isohexadecane, stable W/O emulsion formulae were prepared with a smaller amount of the surfactant than in the conventional technique. W/O emulsion formulae obtained in this way were found to have a higher skin-compatibility and lower stickiness than that of the conventional emulsions. Additionally, it was found that not only the interlayer distance of the organoclay but also the interaction between organoclay and surfactants has important functionalities in the oil-gel formation.
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  • Masae Iida, Chiaki Asami, Shoichiro Nishikawa
    2013 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 26-32
    Published: March 20, 2013
    Released on J-STAGE: August 22, 2015
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Pearl and shellfish with laminated structures display a brilliant radiance from the inside. We explored the relationship between the radiance from inside the skin and ordered arrays of laminated stratum corneum (SC). The sensory evaluation of the skin, the evaluation of the SC regularity and the measurement of the degree of scattering in the skin were performed. As a result, significant correlations were indicated between the SC regularity and both the sensory evaluation of radiance and the degree of scattering from inside the skin. Next, we started to develop new cosmetics which reproduce the radiance from inside the skin. First, focusing our attention on the ordered array of laminated SC, a new powder was developed. Similar to SC structure, it has two alternating layers of different materials. The degree of scattering of conventional powders which have a laminated structure was lower than that of the skin with irregular SC, whereas the degree of scattering of the new powder was higher than that of the skin with regular SC. Finally, an experimental foundation containing the new powder was produced and applied to the skin of test subjects. We confirmed this new makeup to be more effective than traditional makeup in reproducing the radiance from inside the skin.
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Note
  • Misako Kobayashi, Toshio Nomura, Shinsuke Kawai, Masato Nakade
    2013 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 33-37
    Published: March 20, 2013
    Released on J-STAGE: August 22, 2015
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    For quantitative analysis of UV absorber in sunscreen products, a simultaneous determination with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) is useful. Many studies on simultaneous determination have been reported. However, most authors adopt a gradient method that is not appropriate for routine analysis, due to the long time needed to stabilize the system after returning the solvent condition to the default before the next sample injection. Herein, we propose an isocratic method, using HPLC on a C30 column. We apply the approach in the simultaneous determination of seven UV absorbers in cosmetic products, and demonstrate that it is an accurate, simple, and effective detection method.
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