Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
Volume 48, Issue 1
Displaying 1-5 of 5 articles from this issue
Special Review
  • Shigetsugu Homma
    2014 Volume 48 Issue 1 Pages 2-10
    Published: March 20, 2014
    Released on J-STAGE: March 22, 2016
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    We are always exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays in the open air, though their intensity varies depending on the weather and seasons. To protect our skin from the threat of UV rays, cosmetic products with UV protection function are applied. A UV scattering agent composed of inorganic oxide powder (including titanium dioxide fine particles and/or zinc oxide fine particles etc.), and a UV absorber composed of organic compounds have been employed to fulfill the UV protection function. The present article summarizes the characteristics of UV scattering agents and UV absorbers generally used for the development of UV protection cosmetics, and introduces a novel, highly functional water-dispersion type titanium dioxide fine particle.
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Originals
  • Keijiro Watabe, Takayuki Kumei, Shu Yin, Tsugio Sato
    2014 Volume 48 Issue 1 Pages 11-18
    Published: March 20, 2014
    Released on J-STAGE: March 22, 2016
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Although the ultrafine metal oxide particles with excellent UV-shielding effects are safer than organic UV-absorbing agents, the use of large quantities of the ultrafine metal oxide particles leads to make the feeling on the skin bad as well as to decrease its transparency. In order to solve these problems, previously, composite powders consisting of tabular or spherical powders coated with ultrafine metal oxide particles were developed. However, such coating with ultrafine metal oxide particles in large quantities deteriorates the comfort of use, while that with small quantities cannot provide the enough UV-shielding effects. Therefore, it has become necessary to develop novel inorganic cosmetic materials. In general, cerium dioxide shows a broad UV-shielding effect. In this study, we have developed an industrial fabrication method for petal-like, tabular, and spherical cerium dioxide particles. These morphologically controlled cerium dioxide particles showed specific slipping effects, UV-shielding effects, adhesion effects, cover effects, and shading-off effects depending on their morphology, which are useful for their applications in cosmetics. Moreover, by mixing petal-like, tabular, and spherical cerium dioxide particles in an appropriate ratio, a powdery foundation possessing synergistically integrated functions, such as a long-lasting effect, seamless fitting feeling, and beautiful finish of the makeup, could be obtained.
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  • Masayuki Iida, Chiharu Tsuda, Natsuko Okiyama, Koji Minami, Takamasa Y ...
    2014 Volume 48 Issue 1 Pages 19-27
    Published: March 20, 2014
    Released on J-STAGE: March 22, 2016
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Conspicuous pores are considered to be one of the biggest skin problems among women of all ages. The goal of our study was to clarify the relationship between make-up deterioration and the visibility of pores. We examined how conspicuous pores are during make-up deterioration, in comparison to the appearance of the face after make-up, as well as the condition of make-up film. As a result, we found that there were either “brightly conspicuous pores” or “darkly conspicuous pores”. We then decided to examine “brightly conspicuous pores” in detail as we found out that it was a unique phenomenon caused by make-up deterioration after applying foundation. As we observed the condition of the skin from the time right after foundation was applied until seven hours later, skin pores were not conspicuous at the beginning, but the more time elapsed, the more “brightly conspicuous” the pores became. By studying the make-up film during this observation, we found that this phenomenon was caused by both exfoliation of makeup film on cristae cutis, and agglomeration of powders in pores, which happened as a result of exfoliation of make-up film on cristae cutis.
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  • Mihiro Kawamura, Makoto Niwa, Hitoshi Masaki
    2014 Volume 48 Issue 1 Pages 28-34
    Published: March 20, 2014
    Released on J-STAGE: March 22, 2016
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Rough skin, which is characterized by lower skin surface water content and higher transepidermal water loss, is similar to the symptom of dry skin. In general, rough skin is reproduced by the topical treatment of an anionic surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). After skin contact, SLS impairs the stratum corneum and exerts a direct toxic effect on the keratinocytes. On the other hand, royal jelly, which has some benefits on the skin such as an increase of collagen production and reduction of melanin production, is widely used as a cosmetic substance. In the study, we evaluated some potentials of the hydrolyzed protein in royal jelly (HR) focusing on the improvement possibility for rough skin using the responsiveness of HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to SLS. HR showed an increase of cell tolerance, and suppressed Interleukin (IL)-1α and IL-8 secretion against exposure to SLS. In addition, HR gave a reduction of the intracellular reactive oxygen species level elevated by SLS. HR showed an increase of cell viability after exposure to hydrogen peroxide. HR showed an increase of intracellular catalase and glutathione. Gathering these results, HR has a potential to improve/prevent rough skin formation through the stimulation of intracellular defenses against oxidative stress.
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  • Shunsuke Iriyama, Kenichi Umishio, Makoto Tsunenaga, Eijiro Adachi, Sa ...
    2014 Volume 48 Issue 1 Pages 35-40
    Published: March 20, 2014
    Released on J-STAGE: March 22, 2016
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The basement membrane (BM) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) plays important roles in cutaneous homeostasis by regulating information between epidermis and dermis. However it is not clear that the functional alteration of the BM by UV irradiation induces various changes in the dermis and epidermis. Since heparan sulfate at the BM regulates diffusion of several growth factors between epidermis and dermis by binding them, heparanase is known to be a degrading heparin sulfate at the BM, leading to deterioration in the function of the BM by diffusion of several growth factors. Thus, our purpose of this study is to elucidate the functional role of heparanase on the BM in the photo-aging process. Human heparanase was detected and activated in the epidermis, and degraded heparan sulfate in the BM at the DEJ by UVB irradiation. Furthermore, heparan sulfate at the DEJ plays important roles in maintaining epidermal differentiation and the structure of the BM. Therefore, we have identified for the first time that heparanase is a photo-aging enzyme that deteriorates the function of the BM by degrading the heparan sulfate chains, resulting in alteration of the dermis and epidermis, leading to photo-aging in UVB irradiated skin. For anti-aging and anti-wrinkle skincare, it is proposed that controlling heparanase activity would be an effective means of treatment. By using a screening system, it was determined that Sapindus mukurossi peel extract effectively inhibited heparanase activity.
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