Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
Volume 49, Issue 4
Displaying 1-5 of 5 articles from this issue
Special Review
  • Sumi Kaneda
    2015 Volume 49 Issue 4 Pages 293-300
    Published: December 20, 2015
    Released on J-STAGE: March 21, 2017
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    For maintaining beautiful hair and a healthy scalp by washing, leaving conditioning components on the hair's surface and providing moisture to the scalp during the washing process are requirements of hair-care products, such as shampoo and conditioner. We have developed a technology to adsorb conditioning silicone efficiently onto the hydrophilic surface of damaged hair by applying Ethyltrimethylammonium Chloride Methacrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylamide Copolymer which exhibits coacervation capabilities in shampoo solution. We have also found that DGA (Diglucosyl Gallic Acid) is useful for repair of the damaged surface during the rinsing process. Because DGA contains a large amount of the hydroxyl group and a carboxyl group in its molecular structure, DGA can adsorb the conditioning agent (cationic surfactant and higher alcohol) efficiently to the amide group on damaged hair. Furthermore, we have investigated the improved effect of drying scalp by using shampoo and conditioner containing a high concentration of moisturizing components. Decrease in moisture content and the itch score were reduced after using these hair care products for four weeks. These results suggest that hair care products containing a high concentration of moisturizing components will be suitable for improving dried scalp.
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Originals
  • Yuichiro Takeyama, Takashi Ogata, Ai Oba, Hidetaka Akatsuka
    2015 Volume 49 Issue 4 Pages 301-308
    Published: December 20, 2015
    Released on J-STAGE: March 21, 2017
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Delivering a useful material into the skin is one of the most important roles of cosmetic preparations. The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, acts as the barrier to prevent skin from being penetrated by external hazardous substances and losing internal water to excess. Many penetration techniques through the stratum corneum have been investigated and developed in order to pass through the barrier and deliver useful materials contained in the cosmetic preparations applied on the skin surface. Most of them were aimed at improving permeability into the stratum corneum, and the diffusion and permeation properties within the underlying epidermal living cell layer have been not well investigated. We hypothesized that the penetrating ability into the epidermal living cell layer differed from the case of the stratum corneum, because of the difference in the water content between the two epidermal layers. In this study, an individual permeability test for each layer was performed. The results confirmed our hypothesis, which suggested that the permeation property both in the epidermal living cell layer and the stratum corneum influenced the permeability through the whole epidermis. Efficient delivery of useful materials to the target cells in the living cell layer would require consideration of the permeation strategy for both layers.
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  • Yoko Komatsu, Sonoko Ishimaru
    2015 Volume 49 Issue 4 Pages 309-318
    Published: December 20, 2015
    Released on J-STAGE: March 21, 2017
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The word “mocchirikan” is often used for the post-application sensation of skin care cosmetics. In this study, we examined how to evaluate it by physical measurement. In order to quantify “mocchirikan”, it is important to find out what kinds of sensations it concerns. We investigated the words correlated, with “mocchirikan” in the realm of sensory evaluation. As a result, “mocchirikan” showed positive correlation with “nenchakukan” in cosmetics without “betatsukikan.” It was found tha “t betatsukikan” showed positive correlation with “nenchakukan” and “zan'ekikan.” Moreover, for cosmetics without “betatsuki,” “nenchakukan” and “zan'ekikan” are felt less. Therefore, we suggest that “mocchirikan” can be quantified by the measurement of “nenchakukan” and “betatsukikan.” Through measurement of application sensations with physical equipment, we found that “nenchakukan” showed positive correlation with peel force at 120 sec after application with a compression tester, and “zan'ekikan” had strong correlation with the residual ratio with thermogravimetric analysis at 35 deg C for 30 min. Our results show that cosmetics without “betatsukikan” indicate weak peel force and a low residual ratio. “Mocchirikan” can be evaluated objectively by peel force within the range of a certain value of peel force and residual ratio.
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Notes
  • Keitaro Kuramitsu, Yuuki Aita, Yoshimune Nonomura
    2015 Volume 49 Issue 4 Pages 319-327
    Published: December 20, 2015
    Released on J-STAGE: March 21, 2017
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Sensory evaluation of objects changes with the words for the tactile feel which are presented to subjects. However, there are few reports on the systematic collection and classification of sensory words on tactile feel. Here, we found 145 words on the tactile feel in “Word list by semantic principles” to categorize them into four tactile dimensions : hardness (hard/soft), roughness (rough/smooth), warmth (warm/cold) and friction (sticky/slippery, moist/dry) factors. This evaluation method can be applied sensory evaluation of the tactile feel in many fields, including cosmetics.
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  • — Friction and Adsorption —
    Toshihiro Fujii, Yoshikazu Higa, Yumiko Ito, Tomoyuki Kawasoe
    2015 Volume 49 Issue 4 Pages 328-333
    Published: December 20, 2015
    Released on J-STAGE: March 21, 2017
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Keratin film prepared from human hair proteins is considered a substitute device for human hair samples, to conveniently evaluate hair damage such as UV, bleach, perm, and thermal stimulations. In this study, we tried to determine if the keratin film could be used to evaluate friction and adsorption by processing commercial shampoo and conditioner products. The weight and fine structure of keratin films was little affected after these treatments. Since no peeling could be detected even if the film was rubbed with our fingers, keratin films provided resistant against mechanical and chemical stresses. Compared to that of a hair strand, the friction of keratin film could be easily measured by a KES system. The MIU value of keratin film was 7-8 fold more than that of a hair strand under our experimental conditions. The friction measurement using keratin film was also possible in a wet state as well as a dry state. Keratin film could withstand the friction measurement up to at least 20 times under both states. Interestingly, the MIU value was decreased when keratin films were treated with the shampoo and shampoo-conditioner. The degree of MIU decrease was dependent on the product used. The adsorption of Si was detected in the samples after treatment with the products containing silicon. These data suggest that keratin film will also be effective to evaluate the tactile sensation of hair.
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