JOURNAL of the JAPAN RESEARCH ASSOCIATION for TEXTILE END-USES
Online ISSN : 1884-6599
Print ISSN : 0037-2072
ISSN-L : 0037-2072
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Volume 59, Issue 9
Displaying 1-13 of 13 articles from this issue
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  • Appearance and Stretching Characteristics of Seams in Knit Fabrics Sewn by a Covering Chain Stitch Machine
    ― Experimental Consideration to the Setting of Sewing Conditions ――
    Kikuko AOYAMA, Hiromi IWASA, Kozo SHIMAZAKI
    2018 Volume 59 Issue 9 Pages 689-698
    Published: September 25, 2018
    Released on J-STAGE: September 25, 2018
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.11419/senshoshi.59.9_689
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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    We have considered the characteristics of the appearance and stretching property of seams in knit fabrics sewn by a covering chain stitch machine for industrial use which is able to form the four types of machine stitch, i.e. Stitch Type 406, 407, 605 and 607. At the first stage, two multiple regression equations which can estimate the percentage of dimensional change in both the upper and lower fabrics after sewing were obtained by using 20 kinds of knit samples sewn by normal bottom feeding. On the basis of the calculated results from the equations, the efficient procedure which improves the defective appearance of seams due to elongating or contracting by the machine sewing was shown by adjusting the differential feed ratio and the pressure of presser foot. At the second stage, we considered the relation between the seam stretching property and thread consumption (thread length) in the seams using seam samples stitched with the type 406, 407, 602 and 605. The elongation ratio of seams at the sewing thread breakage was mainly influenced by both the minimum thread consumption among the needle threads and the consumption of lower looper thread. Under the condition that the feeding stroke of main feed dog is constant, the experimental equation relating between the breaking elongation ratio of seams and the thread consumption, was obtained by introducing the “adjusted effective thread consumption” per stitch. This experimental equation was applicable to all the knit fabrics used in this study.

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