A variety of Japanese traditional crepe fabrics, Hitokoshi chirimen, were made of different weft and warp yarns for experiments to establish the most suitable weaving conditions. The relationship have been analyzed between design factor and basic physical properties, crimp shape, fabric hand and end-use performances. The following desirable factors for design of crepe fabrics have been obtained from experiments.
(1) The percentage of warp yarns shall be 4548%,
(2) The coefficient of twists shall be 47 00053 000,
(3) Considering the fineness or roughness of the crimp size, the number of twists shall be 3 0003 600 tpm for Hitokoshi chirimen and 2 4002 800 tpm for Kodai chirimen.
(4) Considering the degree of crimping ability, the shrinkage of fabrics shall be 0.300.35.
(5) Considering the characteristics of fabric hand, the cover factor of weft direction shall be. 13.0∼14.0.
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