本稿は、近代における韓国最初の専門書といわれる金淑堂著『朝鮮全書』(1925年)の記述を通して伝統的な「針仕事:バヌジル」の様相を明らかにするとともに、その著に触発されて「針仕事」を生涯の仕事として行ってきた楊甲兆氏への聞書き等に基づいて、韓国女性にとっての「針仕事」の意義を考察したものである。「針仕事」は韓国女性が習得しなければならない大切な徳目とされ、韓国の女性たちは、子どものころから母親や姉妹のなす「針仕事」に触れながら、技術の習得を行ってきた。彼女らは、家族が着用する在宅着や外出着、表着や下着のすべてを、手づくりしてきた。それらには、季節の巡りに対応した材料選択と形状構成がなされていた。加えて、女性たちは、決して端切れさえも無駄にしなかった。一針一針に心を込めて縫い合わされたチョガッポには、自ずと、女性たちの感性が美しく表現されている。男尊女卑の厳格な儒教倫理が生活の隅々にまで貫徹されていた時代のなかで、その生涯を「針」とともに生き抜いてきた女性たちは、「針仕事」を通して自己のアイデンティティを表出し続けてきた。『朝鮮全書』にはそのような韓国女性の「針仕事」の文化が反映している。

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　明治時代初期から開始された日本の初期女子教育では，手芸と

に関する教育が重要視された. 大妻女子大学は，大妻コタカによって明治41年に手芸とを教授する私塾として始まり，現在までその伝統が受け継がれてきた. 本稿では，大妻における手芸教育の詳細を明らかにすることを目的として，大妻女子大学博物館所蔵の手芸作品のうち，筆者が平成26年11月〜12月に調査した267点について報告した. 調査の結果, 所蔵作品は「手芸作品」，「雛形」，「その他」の3項目に分けられ，さらに手芸作品は12の手芸技法によって分類できた.

　大妻コタカの著作類と照合したところ，昭和2〜5年頃の出版物掲載の作品と類似するものが多かった. 作品形式や技法などから，今回の調査対象である手芸

作品は，大正時代末期から昭和10年ごろ制作されたものであることが明らかとなった. また調査した作品の大半がレース類であり，テーブルクロスなどの実用的な作品が多いこと，課題作品の内容から，大妻では合理的に学べるようカリキュラムが工夫されていたことがわかった. 本研究から，大妻女子大学所蔵の手芸作品は，大正時代末期から昭和10年頃までの大妻の手芸教育の内容を伝える重要な資料であることが明らかとなった.

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Analyzing the contents of magazines such as "Hifuku," "Housework and Needlework," and "Studies of Education," this paper examines the trend of making over the old clothing which was encouraged between 1931 and 1945, and problem awareness of elementary school needlework teachers. The results are as follows: 1. The purpose of making over the old clothing was to conserve energy and provide clothing for those in need. The topic of making over the old clothing was included in magazine articles and textbooks in order to promote the importance of needlework at home. 2. Devising and applying skills and technologies became important to recreate the values of clothing that have been used or abandoned. Such skills as dyeing, embroidery, creating of new patterns, and creativity received much attention. 3. The role of elementary school sewing course was to spread the making over old clothing into homes. Sewing teachers, however, considered their role as contributing directly to the national economy.

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The following characteristics about teaching contents and methods on needlework were found by analyzing sewing textbooks and manuals in elementary schools during the Meiji Era. 1. Teaching contents were of the practical level, and were based on contents to apply to everyday life, and were given serious consideration in teaching. 2. "Unshin" contained "Sunui" and "Chokusennui", and were practiced in step-by-step stages. Sample-making and unsewing of already-made clothing were added to a sewing unit to obtain teaching efficiency. 3. Primary factors that aided teaching contents and method in elementary schools during the Miji Era were on the addition of educational law, a background on life, and one's view of teaching "hand-sewing subject" to function as efficient ladies.

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The aim of this paper is to clarify the teaching materials and methods of guidance in connection with Western dressmaking in elementary schools from 1932-1944. The results were as follows: 1. Western sewing materials of the 1930's, and necessary underwear and clothes for children to carry out daily life were selected as teaching materials for Western dressmaking classes in the 1930's. The increase of Western sewing materials created a confusion of Western and Japanese sewing distribution and made less important the sequence of study content. The teacher's manual mentioned that the shape of the clothes would change in various ways by human shape, function of clothes, relationship of individual personality, and the coordination with jackets. It also mentioned that the variety of shapes has a role to bring out the personality of the person wearing the clothes. There were four methods in regard to drawing dress patterns. The first method was to draw a pattern at first hand. The second method was on the basis of a prototype. The third method was on the basis of "A simple Western Dress". The fourth method was to apply Japanese cutting. Based on differences and common characteristics, Japanese and Western sewing became related to each other. 2. When the 1940s occurred, sewing education had a role in basic training for women under the Imperial nation. The educational view emphasized tradition, reversed the evaluation of Western clothes and kimono, and the importance was made to raise the view and respect for tradition through Japanese sewing. In Western sewing education, basic elements were emphasized and sewing techniques became an elective and not a prerequisite.

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The purpose of this study was to clarify the influence of the teaching method which was being given a great deal of attention for the Japanese dressmaking from the Meiji to the Taisho era. The results were as follows: 1. It was serious problem to overcome the dullness of the study of teaching method and to catch teaching level up with other subjects. The elementary schools attached to Teacher's College were propulsive power for the study of teaching method in the Taisho era. 2. Teaching ability was regarded as important besides skills for teacher of Japanese dressmaking. 3. The teacher's manuals of Japanese dressmaking contributed to generalize the teaching method and to promote the study. 4. The cramming system and imitative quality derived from the stereotyped teaching method was criticized by people, then it was insisted on sense of teaching that demand spontaneity and creativity of students.

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The purpose of this paper was to clarify the feature which techniques of western sewing had been accepted from the Meiji to the middle Taisho era. The following features were clarified from construction, cutting and sewing point of view. In the beginning the techniques of western sewing were standardization of regularsize, straight cutting line, cutting without paper pattern and economical material use. Thereafter they appeared that the roundness and the cut, which took account of a action and a distinction of body. The sewing machin stitch by hand was developed to substitute for the machin sewing, because sewing machines were scarce and hard to use.

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The purpose of this study was to clarify the outline of the standard teaching method and the practical problem for the Japanese dressmaking in elementary schools from the Meiji to the Taisho era. It was investigated through the teacher's manuals which were published from 1897 to 1919 and educational magazines published by the elementary school attached to Tokyo Teacher's College. The results were as follows: 1. Mainly three steps of instruction were applied to simultaneous teaching of Japanese dressmaking. Teaching instruments were used for medium of teacher's explanation and student's apprehension. Sewing of parts was regarded as important analytical teaching instrument, and cloth to practice was assigned also. 2. As for practical problems to teach Japanese dressmaking simultaneously, there were problems, such as the supply of the material, the educational instruments, a method of application of teaching tools, and standardization of sewing skill.

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