1995 Volume 39 Issue 1 Pages 67-75
Being made model experiments of yunoshi process in shrinking for Kimono, residual tensile strain and bending rigidity of silk crape clothes when stretched in warp and filling direction of clothes shrunk at their maximum by pre-washing (huriarai) under steaming were discussed.
1) It's sufficient to set in shape of residual tensile strain of clothes due to loading by steaming at 98℃ for 60sec.
2) Residual tensile strain of clothes due to loading in filling direction is larger than that of warp direction, in case of filling creping clothes. Here, in former tensile loading, the width of clothes in perpendicular to loading direction (warp) becomes shorter, but in latter tensile loading, the width of clothes in perpendicular to loading direction (filling) becomes longer a little.
And in case of Habutae, it does not almost generate residual tensile strain due to loading.
3) Changes of density, thickness and weight of clothes due to tensile load under steaming depend on residual tensile strain mentioned in above 2). Above all, as residual tensile strain due to loading when steaming in filling direction is large, these three properties of clothes in warp direction decrease to a high degree. Accordingly, variations of properties for clothes due to yunoshi treatment look forward to the degree of tensile extension in filling direction of clothes when steaming.
4) With still more increase of tensile load in steaming, bending rigidity of clothes grows larger. This is caused by next ① and ② come about when loading to clothes under steaming, ① the contact area both warp and filling yarns of clothes become langer, and ② the hardening of the very filling and warp yarns of clothes.
