Abstract
Many samples of Habutae were woven under various conditions and were inspected carefully to investigate the effects of warp tension cycle on the woven fabrics. Our tension recorder was used to record the respective warp tension cycle during the weaving.
The results of the study can be summarised as follows.
1. As the warp tension increased, the lustre and breaking strength in warp direction, and breaking elongation in weft direction increased. But, on the contrary, the breadth, lustre and breaking strength in weft direction, and the breaking elongation in warp direction decreased. The thickness of the fabrics decreased at first as the warp tension increased, but after having passed a minimum value it showed rather an increasing tendency.
2. As the time of shed-closing lagged from the top center, the breadth of fabrics, the breaking elongation in both directions and the breaking strength in weft direction increased. On the contrary the thickness, lustre and breaking strength in warp direction decreased. The lustre in weft direction showed no remarkable effect.
3. The effects of increased weaving speed showed a similar tendency to that of increased warp tension.
4. Even in the case of silk weaving, the luster, smoothness, and appearance were improved by having set the back-rest higher than the plane of breast-beam and mailline.
