RELATIONS BETWEEN SENSORY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FOR THE HANDLE OF WORSTED-AND WOOLEN FABRICS

Abstract

The composite characteristic called “fuai”, in English textile trade “handle”, is mainly tactile feelings for fabrics. It is interesting to study what physical properties correlate to “fuai”.
In this paper, principal component analysis were applied to discuss the relation between four subjective evaluations and twenty-three physical measurements for worsted-and woolen type women's suiting fabrics. Twelve samples were ranked for the qualities of coarseness, firmness, fullness and “koshi” by twenty-four specialists. On the other hand. physical properties of the samples were measured for weight, thickness, specific volume, compressibility, compressional resilience, cover factor, crease resistance, static and kinetic friction, flexural rigidity, etc. From the score matrix of subjective and objective tests, the correlation matrix was calculated and factoranalysed.
Futhermore, six samples were chosen from the twelve fabrics used previously. These were ranked for subjective liveliness by four experts. In this test the subjective liveliness ratings were judged by high and low tactile pressure. The physical properties of fabrics on the subjective liveliness were examined.
The results were as follows:
(1) Subjective liveliness ratings were not affected by the difference in tactile pressure between high and low. These subjective ratings can be correlated to the crease resistance and flexural rigidity.
(2) Principal component analysis yielded five major factors, namely, subjective coarseness, crease resistance, weight, friction, and flexural rigidity.
(3) Subjective coarseness and fullness could be mainly represented by the physical characteristics for fabric surface structure, and the subjective firmness and “koshi” by crease resistance.