Abstract
The force required to thrust a hand sewing needle through fabrics for men's suites of various textures were measured employing the previously reported technique. The results were discussed in terms of the parameter of texture and of the physical properties measured by the method proposed by The Committee of Hand Evaluation. As the result, it was estimated that the force required for needle penetration was strongly affected by the volume fraction of fiber in the cloth and by the shear modulus. However, the other properties were estimated not to be essential to the force required for needle penetration. It was also ascertained that the force required for needle penetration was related to “Hari” and “Shari” of fabrics, but not to the other parameters estimated by KES hand evaluation. In addition, it was observed that, for the fabrics giving the smaller resistance to the needle, the better results were obtained in the shirring at the shoulder part of men's suites as well as in the evaluation of TAV, the total-appearance-value.
