Assessment of muscle strength and endurance in Sport-climbing

Abstract

    This study aimed to develop the assessment of muscle strength and endurance in climbers, and clarify the profiles of muscle strength and endurance in Lead climbers, in relation to performance levels. Muscular strength and endurance, using a traditional hand grip strength dynamometer and an original new climbing-specific grip strength and endurance test, were determined in 12 male non-climbers and 40 male Lead climbers who were categorized into four groups (control, beginner, intermediate and expert). All muscular strength and endurance test were significantly associated with climbing performances (ρ＝0.674 -0.747, p<0.05). Differences among the four groups were more marked in climbingspecific strength and endurance than in traditional hand grip strength. Traditional hand grip strength was significantly higher for control group than for beginner and intermediate group. Therefore it is insufficient to evaluate muscle strength of Lead climbers only by traditional hand grip strength, whereas the climbing-specific strength tests used here can be used to evaluate the muscle strength and endurance profiles of Lead climbers in relation to climbing performance.