The Relationship between Caterers and the Transition Feasts of Buddhist Rites in a Merchant Family in Kyoto from the Late Edo Period to the Modern Period

Abstract

This paper analyzes the meals served in association with Buddhist rites in urban merchant families from the late Edo period to the modern period, based on records of Buddhist rites maintained by Kyoto merchant families. The paper shows that upon the death of the head of a merchant family, a dozen or so communal meals were held for the mourning family, relatives, servants, merchants, and neighbors, and that there was a fixed relationship between tableware and dishes in terms of their contents, which differed from the contemporary image of Kyoto cuisine. The study also investigated the relationship and degree of dependence between merchant houses and “shidashiya” caterers by examining the cycles of clients, transformation of dishes, geographical situations of each party, and payment records.