Abstract
This paper presents an analytical study on the hydraulic characteristics of a surging front on a gently sloping beach caused by tsunamis forming a partial clapotis, based on the conventional shock relations. The validity of the solution on the height of surging front is examined through comparison with the results of laboratory experiments. It is found that agreements between the theory and the experiments are very well. The solutions are affected by the run-up height of the tsunamis. Therefore, it is also discussed analytically. The comparison of the theoretical and the experimental results shows that the theoretical result well describes the run-up height of tsunamis with a relatively large reflection coefficient.