Abstract
Transformation characteristics of double peak spectral waves are investigated by laboratory experiments and numerical calculations by a hybrid theoretical model employing a modified spectral KdV equation model and a probabilistic bore breaking model. Since energy densities of high frequency wave train decrease faster than those of low frequency wave train in shoaling and breaking zone, the high frequency peak becomes diminished resulting in one peak spectral wave; which is the cause that the occurrence probability of double peak spectral waves is higher in offshore region than that in coastal area, as reported in the literatures. The hybrid model can predict the changes of energy spectra, significant wave heights, and significant wave periods.