Boundary Layer Assessment under Breaking Solitary Wave Run Up

Abstract

Numerical experiment is conducted based on canonical problem for breaking solitary wave run up on sloping beach. The model in this study was developed using simultaneous coupling method of shallow water equation (SWE) with k-ω model for assessing boundary layer under solitary wave run up. Free stream, bed stress, velocity profile, and k value are recorded in three measurement points. The locations are, at the start of bed slope, near shore, and another one between them. Free stream velocities measurements show that the wave deformation due ti wave breaking causes a longer period of deceleration as the wave travel to shoreline. The effect is observed in the bed stress profile, vertical velocity distribution and k value. It is found that k value increases as the wave approaches the shoreline and its generation is highly effected by the wave breaking.