Abstract
High waves, so-called ‘Yori-Mawari Wave’ are caused by low pressures through passing Japan Sea in winter several times in a year. In particular, on February 2008 a huge swell with a maximum significant wave-height of 9.92 m and a maximum significant wave-period of 16 s was observed at Toyama Port. For the dangerous damage, many studies of hindcast and prediction were carried out and the accuracy of wind wave models of the third generation is improving. The estimation of significant wave-height and -period at Fushiki and Toyama Ports have been worse yet, though those was considerably well at Wajima and Naoets points where are bounded by the open ocean.
Because an above problem remains unclear, in the present study the refracton-deffraction due to complicated topography around/in Toyama Bay was investigated numerically using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) that is a third-generation numerical wave model. As a result, it was found that an appropriate horizontal resolution improved the significant wave-height and -period in the hingcast run.
