Abstract
For a coastal structure constructed on a reef bathymetry, it is important to estimate the surf-beat generation due to wave shoaling and breaking addition to the wave height reduction and the wave set-up. In this study, A series of numerical experiments is conducted by using a Boussinesq model to reveal the characteristics of surf-beat distribution which may have relations to wave height distribution referring some existing experimental formulae. To do this, the wave breaking model based on an one-equation turbulence model is modified with velification to some results of model experiments on wave height distribution on a slope and a reef. In consequence of the results of numerical experiments, the increase of surf-beat height along the penetrating wave direction on a reef is disturbed near a reef-edge in a wave breaking condition.
