2019 Volume 75 Issue 2 Pages I_271-I_276
On submerged breakwaters, fringing reefs and atolls which have large steps, it is difficult to conduct a stable calculation of wave transformation by using a Boussinesq model which is derived with a mild slope approximation. In this study, a “step boundary technique” is newly developed to give an appropriate flux to the boundary between calculation regions which are separated on a large step by compulsion.
While the improved model with this technique can calculate partial wave reflection and transmission on a step, the wave height distributions due to wave breaking and dispersion on a submerged breakwater, which were measured in a previous model experiment in a flume, are reproduced with good accuracy.
