The Influence of the Penetration of Resist Paste on Dyeing Effect in Kyo-Yuzen

Abstract

“Yuzen” is a traditional but still popular method of dyeing fabrics in Japan. The products using the Yuzen method and manufactured in Kyoto city are called "Kyo-Yuzen." The dyeing method of Yuzen can be dividing into 10 procedures. A specialized craftsman is in charge of each procedure. During the paste application (Nori-oki) procedure, the expert applies a starch paste or a rubber paste to a fabric in order to resist dyeing. The two resist pastes create different effect on the dyed fabric. At market, the fabric with a starch paste application is perceived to have a higher value than that with a rubber paste. In this study, the difference of the viscosity between two materials was clarified, and specimens which craftsman dyed were observed. Then how two materials put on fabrics, and the structures of them were measured. As a result of this research, it was clarified that rubber paste penetrated into fabrics rather than starch paste.