Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan
Online ISSN : 1881-1159
Print ISSN : 0040-5043
Study on Qualitative Improvement on Crepe Summer Wear
Part 1: Relation between Feature Analysis on Physical Properties and Quality Judgement Data
Hiroki Ishikura
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1989 Volume 35 Issue 4 Pages 13-19

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Abstract
The object of this study was to clarify the special features of crepe as a fabric for summer wear by quantitative measurement of its physical properties, mainly KES-F data. A further objectives was to draw up an objective formula for evaluating the quality of crepe, which would be a basic material for designing high-quality crepe.
Results
1) The mechanical properties (under knit high-sensitivity conditions) which are clearly special features of crepe are high bending rigidity and hysteresis along the warp, and high elasticity coefficient when stretched along the warp (i.e. little distortion at the load of 50gf/cm), in comparison with knit and uncrimped woven fabrics used for similar purposes.
2) Results of testing with KES apparatus indicate that crepe does not have special features of heat, moisture and air conductivity in comparison with knit and uncrimped woven fabrics used for similar purpose.
3) An objective formula for evaluating the quality of piqué crepe was derived by correlating quality judgements by experts with abstracted data on five mechanical properties that is, bending rigidity along warp, shearing rigidity, surface roughness along weft, weight/area, and rate of shrinkage. This formula has a high adaptabiliy.
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