Abstract
This study has estimated the monthly-mean significant wave height and period, most frequent wave direction, wave power, and wave and wind calmness ratio at the GPS buoys and their nearby coastal wave gauges on the Tohoku to Shikoku Coast, Japan. There is a similar seasonal variation in the monthly wave statistics among the seven GPS buoys on Tohoku Coast. The spatial variation among these GPS buoys is smaller than the yearly variation. The wave height at the coastal wave gauge is smaller than that at the GPS buoy owing to the surrounding bathymetry. The wave power is generally larger and the calmness ratios are lower at the GPS buoy sites than at the coastal wave gauge sites. The GPS buoys observed high waves near the typhoon center and the wave generation and propagation owing to a low-pressure system.
