WAVE HEIGHT ESTIMATION FORMULA OVER REEF BASED ON NUMERICAL SIMULATION USING BOUSSINESQ MODEL

Abstract

 This study proposes the empirical formula of wave height estimation over reefs in which the coefficients in the formula are determined using simulation results by the Boussinesq wave model that can simulate wave transformation in shallow sea. Seabed slope and gradient are not considered in the past studies, but they are considered by coefficients (α, B and A) in this study. The applicability of proposed formula was confirmed through comparison with the observations and simulated values by the KP equation model. The proposed empirical formula is able to employ to estimate the design wave height on reefs.