EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON BEHAVIOR OF NON-LINEARITY AND OCCURRENCE OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHT ON SLOPE

Abstract

 The extreme wave occurrence from normality and its prediction in deep water become getting clear according to many studies on offshore extreme waves. On the other hand, there are a few studies about the extreme wave occurrence in shallow water. In this study, a series of physical experiments with several slope bottoms were conducted to investigate the transient behavior of the high-order nonlinear wave properties and the extreme wave occurrence on the slope, including in the surf zone. As a results, the kurtosis on the slope follows the skewness changing developed by the second-order nonlinear interactions associated with wave shoaling and its behavior depends on the breaker type. Additionally, the dependence of the kurtosis developed by the quasi-four wave interactions in deep water on the extreme wave occurrence becomes weak on the slope.