INVESTIGATION OF APPLICABILITY OF NON-HYDROSTATIC WAVE MODEL SWASH AGAINST WAVE DEFORMATION ON A REEF

Abstract

 It is necessary to estimate the wave deformations on the reef when planning wave overtopping counter-measures such as seawalls on the reef coast. In this study, the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH is used to calculate wave deformations on a reef, and its applicability is examined through comparison with previous models. Both quasi-2D and quasi-3D calculations showed good agreement with the results of model experiments and field observations. In particular, it is shown that SWASH is applicable to the calculation of wave deformations on reefs for all incident wave conditions in the case of a low number of vertical layers. The roughness coefficients were shown to affect the wave height on the reef. The limitation on SWASH espetially on inverse gradient topography and the instability of the calculation was confirmed.