Spatial Variation of a Pressure Gradient on a Barred Beach and its Statistical Modeling

Abstract

This paper reports the cross-shore variations of a pressure gradient on a fixed barred beach. The data sets were obtained as part of large-scale laboratory experiments. The cross-shore variation of the pressure gradient showed that the maximum value of the pressure gradient appeared in the wave breaking area, and the pressure gradients were considered to be influenced by the fluctuation of water surface elevation. The spatial variation of pressure gradient and water surface elevation showed a good correlation from offshore to onshore in both regular and irregular wave cases. The exceedance probabilities of the pressure gradient were also analyzed and found that the distribution of the exceedance probability of the pressure gradient could be evaluated by the Weibull distribution.