The Study on the Wave-Breaking Mechanism of Tsunami Against Flow

Abstract

The ratio of water surface velocity to wave celerity is applied as the wave-breaking criteria, and the hydraulic experiment is carried out to clarify the relationship between Froude number and the wave-breaking criteria. The estimation method of wave-breaking criteria including flow effect is proposed and its validity is confirmed by comparing to the experimental result. In addition, we study the governing equation, space grid size and scheme of advective term in order to express the transformation of flow-ascending tsunami adequately in numerical simulation.