Time-Space Fluctuation of Rip Current Measured in Very Shallow Region

Abstract

Spatial variation of time varying rip current and surface displacements around a rip channel were measured by arrayed five wave gauges and current meters in the breaker zone. It is found that small change in incident wave direction caused a significant shift of rip current pattern and grouping incident waves caused low frequency fluctuation in mean current velocity and mean water surface displacement. Although the effect of incident wave grouping on the low frequency motion was reproduced by the numerical simulation, the shift of flow pattern caused by the change in incidentwave direction was not reproduced perfectly.