Abstract
To date, several important findings on breakers have been obtained through many relevant studies. However, the correlation between the breaker mechanism and the characteristics of space-time distribution of underwater pressure associated with breakers has not been fully investigated, and many unknowns remain. In this study, we conducted u both hydraulic model tests using a subminiature pressure gauge and numerical simulation using a κ-ε model to investigate changes in the space-time distribution of underwater pressure associated with breakers. Both the hydraulic model tests and the numerical simulation revealed that the spatial distribution of the dynamic pressure when breakers were generated showed its largest values beneath the wave crests with gradually decreasing pressures in both forward and backward directions from the crests, and that the dynamic pressure gradient was very large in front of the wave crests. We also found that the dynamic pressure in the wake of breakers is smaller than that when breakers are generated, and that irregular space-time distributions of the dynamic pressure are observed in areas where the surface of the water is agitated
