Abstract
Both water-holding and permeability barrier function in the stratum corneum (SC) are essential for keeping skin moisture. Intercellular lipids in SC, which are composed mainly of cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides, play a crucial role for maintaining the function in SC. The object of our study is to find active ingredients from plant extracts for enhancing the abilities of skin hydration and barrier repair by focusing on the synthesis of ceramides. As a result, we found that licorice leaf extract is a promising ingredient showing not only an increase of mRNA expression levels of serine palmytoyltransferase (SPT) and sphingomyelinase related to ceramide biosynthesis in keratinocytes but also syntheses of ceramides in a 3D skin model and in human skin. Furthermore, licorice leaf extract showed an increase of mRNA expression levels of HMG-CoA reductase (HMGCR) related to cholesterol biosynthesis and an increase of hyaluronan (HA) production in in vitro tests. One of the principles isolated from licorice leaf extract, 6-prenyl-naringenin, was thought to be one of the active components. These results suggested that licorice leaf extract may be a useful ingredient for skin care due to the synthesis of intercellular lipids and HA.
